Trafik BAR (GNB Rd; beers 70; h10am-10pm) This underlit bar has a vast screen for cricket matches or filmi (slang term describing anything gus s chalet to do with Indian movies; in this case, Bollywood music) clips.
Just beyond, a left turning passes the Golaghar or Ahom ammunition store, gus s chalet the stonework of which is held together with a mix of dhal, lime and egg. Beyond are the two-storey ruins of Talatalghar (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; gus s chalet hdawn-dusk), the extensive, two-storey Ahom palace built by Ahom King Rajeswar Singha in the mid-18th century.
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