memory chalet A peaceful lane winding through forested hills and tribal settlements links Ziro to Pasighat via Alo

Sitting almost halfway between Kohima and Mon most people sensibly choose to break their journey memory chalet in laidback Mokokchung. Aside from enjoying the town s spectacular setting, try to make time for a couple of other low-key attractions including the small, privately run Rendikala Subong Museum (Town Hall Rd; admission 10), which contains memory chalet tribal items collected from surrounding villages as well as what is purported to be the world s smallest memory chalet Bible. The museum is open whenever someone turns up to see it. A couple of kilometres away is pretty Ungma village, memory chalet where you ll find a couple of huge log drums and a cloud scrapping Jendong (a pole that helps connect people on Earth with the Gods high up in the skies).

The two main villages are Kamalabari, 3km from the ferry port and Garamur, 5km further north. The most interesting, accessible satras are the large, beautifully peaceful Uttar Kamalabari (1km north, then 600m east of Kamalabari) and Auniati (5km west of Kamalabari), where monks are keen to show you their little museum (Indian/ foreigner/camera/video 5/50/50/200; h9.3011am & 12-4pm) memory chalet of Ahom royal artefacts. The best chances of observing chanting, dances or drama recitations are around dawn and dusk or during the big Ras Mahotsav Festival (third week of November).

A peaceful lane winding through forested hills and tribal settlements links Ziro to Pasighat via Along. Highlights are dizzying suspension footbridges and thatched Adi villages around Along. Do be warned though that the attractions along this route are very low-key, the villagers around Along are much less welcoming to foreigners (and they don t sport the Apatanis tattoos and nose plugs) and the route, which involves three full days of travel, memory chalet is very tiring. Unless you re going to be heading from Along to fabulous Mechuka memory chalet or remote eastern towns and valleys such as Tuting or the Namdapha National Park then you may find this route something of a let down.