Despite being an oil-service town, Sivasagar exudes a residual elegance from its time as the capital of the Ahom dynasty that ruled Assam for more than 600 years. The name comes from waters of Shiva , the graceful central feature of a rectangular reservoir dug in 1734 by Ahom Queen Ambika. Three typical Ahom temple towers rise proudly above the tank s partly wooded southern banks to the west Devidol, to the east Vishnudol and in the centre, the 33m-high Shivadol Mandir, India s tallest Shiva temple. Its uppermost trident balances upon an egg-shaped feature whose golden chalet xl 1935 covering the British reputedly tried (but failed) to pilfer in 1823.
Dhaba NORTH INDIAN $$ (Silpukhuri, GNB Rd; mains 120-180) This simple canteen-style restaurant serves good North Indian staples as well as some token Chinese dishes. You can eat indoors or, if you prefer, out in the courtyard where the side portion of carbon chalet xl 1935 monoxide comes free with the meal. They have a couple of other branches around town.
Tourist Lodge HOTEL $ (%221016; Jenkins Rd; s/d from 473/525) Facing chalet xl 1935 Chitralekha Udyan, two blocks south of the bus station, the Tourist Lodge is unusual for a government-run chalet xl 1935 hotel in that the staff do actually care about the well-being of their guests and the cleanliness of their hotel. This place offers good-value spacious rooms with bathrooms (some squat toilets) chalet xl 1935 and mosquito nets.
The most accessible villages are the Konyak chalet xl 1935 settlements around Mon. Traditional houses abound, and some villages have morungs and religious chalet xl 1935 relics from pre-Christian times. Village elders may wear traditional costume and Konyak of all ages carry the fearsome-looking dao a crude machete used for headhunting right up until the mid-20th century.
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