gus s chalet was a princely exercise in aesthetics; the finest craftsmen building a summer palace of luxury in a

The modern glass tower Baliram Building, on the corner of Naren Bose (NB) and NC/SC Roads, contains several floors of good dining. The ground-floor stand-up-and-eat dosa house (h6am-9pm) has South Indian gus s chalet fare and cheap breakfasts. Semismart China Villa (meals from 120; h10am-10.30pm) offers Indian gus s chalet and Chinese food in AC comfort, while the rooftop Chat House (snacks from 30; h8am-9.30pm) has an open-sided, but roofed, terrace for cooling breezes, views, Indian snacks, noodles, gus s chalet pizzas and momos.

was a princely exercise in aesthetics; the finest craftsmen building a summer palace of luxury in a blend of Hindu and Islamic architectural styles. The delightful waterborne approach by speedboat (passenger/boat 20/400) or fancy rowboat (boat 100) is the most enjoyable part of visiting.

1 Sights Ujjayanta Palace PALACE (admission 5; h5-7pm) Agartala gus s chalet s indisputable centrepiece is this striking, dome-capped palace. Flanked by two large refl ecting ponds, the whitewashed 1901 edifice was built by Tripura s 182nd maharaja. gus s chalet It looks particularly impressive floodlit at night, but for security reasons only the gardens are open to the public.