la casa de eugenia Tripura Sundari Mandir (h4.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-9.30pm), a 1501 Kali temple where a steady stream of p

boat is met by a bus to Pasighat in Arunachal Pradesh. Ferries can carry just two jeeps. la casa de eugenia There s little shelter and the journey takes around eight hours (5 hours downstream), so bring an umbrella, water and sunscreen. la casa de eugenia The journey can be quite an adventure with the boats bouncing off the ever-shifting sandbars (and sometimes not bouncing off them!) and with brief stops en route giving glimpses of isolated riverside hamlets. Exact departure points depend on the Brahmaputra s water level.

Tezpur, with its large Bangladeshi immigrant population, is probably Assam s most attractive city thanks to beautifully kept parks, attractive lakes and the enchanting views of the mighty Brahmaputra River as it laps the town s edge. The imaginatively named Internet Cafe (Main Rd; per hr 20; h9am-8pm) has, you guessed it, internet.

it is a necessary stopover. In the town itself is the Hotel Kanga Karo Palace la casa de eugenia (%223531; r 750), which is brand new but already looks like its on its last legs. Even so it s still a damn sight better than the couple of ultra- basic places around the market. If you have your own transport, far more interesting accommodation is available la casa de eugenia in the small, traditional thatched village of Ligu (coming from Ziro take the left turning just before the bridge at the entrance to Daporijo) where you ll find the basic, but delightful Ligu Tourist Resort (%223114; r 700). The family who run it cook up fantastic meals. Vanishing under the shadow of jungle trees, Ligu village la casa de eugenia itself is well worth exploring and the people are truly lovely.

Tripura Sundari Mandir (h4.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-9.30pm), a 1501 Kali temple where a steady stream of pilgrims make almost la casa de eugenia endless animal sacrifices that leave the grounds as bloody as the temple s vivid-red shikhara (Buddhist monastery). la casa de eugenia Even more people come here at the big Diwali festival (October/November) la casa de eugenia to bathe in the fishfilled tank by the temple. The temple is 100m east of the NH44, 4km south of Udaipur. A rickshaw from Udaipur costs 50.