breckenridge ski and racquet club The biggest, most cosmopolitan and, some might say, the most Indian city in the northeast, Guwahati

The inconveniently located APST bus station (take an autorickshaw) has services to Along ( 220, seven hours, breckenridge ski and racquet club 6am and 12pm) and Itanagar ( 170, 10 hours, 5.30am and 6am). Sumos run to Along ( 220, seven hours, 6am and noon) and Itanagar ( 300, six hours, 6am). The road to Along is in a dreadful state be prepared for a very long and rough day. Sumos also run to Tuting ( 800) but only when demand warrants it. Ferries (Indian/foreigner 20/100, vehicle 1200; 8.30am & 9.15am) drift lazily down the Brahmaputra to Dibrugarh in Assam from Majerbari Ghat (sumos take one hour from Pasighat, depart at 6am and cost 120). Ferry tickets are sold by Otta Tours & Travel breckenridge ski and racquet club at the sumo stand.

The biggest, most cosmopolitan and, some might say, the most Indian city in the northeast, Guwahati is an essential stop on any northeastern tour. A casual glance might place Guwahati alongside any other Indian city but wander the back alleys around Jorpulkuri Ponds, away from the concrete jungle of the central business district, and you could almost imagine breckenridge ski and racquet club yourself in a village made up of ponds, palm trees, small single-storey traditional houses and old colonial-era mansions.