trailside cabins some impressive traditional buildings all set, surreally, under two giant mobile phone towers. Shing

Some 30km northwest of Guwahati, the pleasant little town of Hajo attracts Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims to its fi ve ancient temples topping assorted hillocks. Haigriv Madhav temple is the main one, which is accessed by a long flight of steps through an ornate quasi-Mughal gateway. The images inside of Madhav, an avatar of Krishna, are alleged to be 6000 years old.

some impressive traditional buildings all set, surreally, under two giant mobile phone towers. Shingha Chingyuo trailside cabins village (20km, population 5900) has a huge longhouse decorated with mithuna (pairs of men and women) trailside cabins and deer skulls, three stuff ed tigers, and a store of old human skulls. Longwoa (35km) is spectacularly trailside cabins sited on the India Myanmar border, with the headman s longhouse actually straddling the two nations. Despite its popularity with tourists it remains trailside cabins one of the most interesting villages. Chui (8km) includes an elephant skull in its longhouse collection. Shangnyu village has a shrine full of fertility references such as tumescent warriors, a crowing cock, a large snake, a man and woman enjoying sex and, to complete trailside cabins the picture, a double rainbow. Langmeang village, with its stack of human skulls piled up in a wooden box, is also highly impressive.